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TechnoMotive "No-limits" Modifications
A funny thing happens when you start putting "go-fast" parts on
your DSM... it fights back! Despite building one of the most bulletproof
production four-bangers on the planet, Mitsubishi engineers played it safe and
put a bunch of restrictions in the ECU code that prevent the tough little
two-liter from attaining its maximum output. Not that the engineers don't like
having a little fun - they simply got leaned on by the bean counters that track
warranty returns. You see, the bean counters know that there are many people
who are going to buy a DSM and completely neglect it. Never change the filters
or oil, buy crappy gas, never clean the spark plugs... then take the car out and
beat the living daylights out of it. So the engineers set the "safe"
limits in the ECU to levels where even an abusive customer finds it difficult to
force the car into an early warranty repair.
In the case of the DSM, this actually works out to a happy situation. The
car has been detuned enough from the factory that it lies in a very attractive
price range; it also gets classified in a better insurance price range. You can
make your car faster than a good Porsche for less than half the price, and pay
relatively low insurance premiums to boot!
As you upgrade the hardware on your car, the factory limitations start to
hit you hard! "Why me?" you think to yourself... "I'm not one
of those bozos that never changes the oil. I take pride in keeping my car in
good shape. Why should I suffer the fate of the lazy and slow?"
We at TechnoMotive believe that you shouldn't have to live with these
limitations.
- "Fuel cut" removal - The ECU is constantly calculating
the mass of air entering each cylinder. It matches this air mass with a
proportional mass of fuel. Typically, the ECU strives to run at what is know as
the "stoichiometric ratio" (14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel). From the
factory, the ECU is set to shut down fuel to the engine when the air-mass
exceeds a certain number. This is not done because the output of the injectors
has been reached. It is only done to prevent the engine from generating more
than a certain amount of power. (It might have been done more to save the
transmission and driveline than the engine itself!) This particular limit is
especially hard to deal with since your car can behave fine on warm days, then
fuel cut badly on cold days. The air is denser on cold days, leading to a
higher air-mass number for the same boost pressure, resulting in fuel cut. Many
people can hit this limit with a stock turbo - with a larger turbo, you are guarenteed
to hit it. We can remove this "performance limiter" for you, so that
you can use the full dynamic range of your fuel injectors.
- Boost limit removed - You might already know that the ECU uses the
boost bleeder solenoid to reduce the amount of boost when excessive knock is
detected. But did you also know that the ECU will use that same solenoid to
reduce boost when airflow exceeds the factory preset limit? This can reduce
your boost pressure by 2-5 psi at higher RPMs! We've removed this annoyance so
that the stock boost bleeder solenoid will only engage when excessive detonation
is detected, saving your engine from expensive damage, not robbing it of
precious horsepower.
- Rev limiter increased - The factory rev limiter is set to 7500 RPM.
Even though this sounds pretty high at first, it turns out that this engine can
MOST LIKELY handle up to 8500 RPM! Please note that WE ARE
NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOUR VALVES FLOAT AND GET SMACKED BY YOUR PISTONS,
or for any other damage caused by this limit being removed. Be sure you know
what you are doing when you request this mod. We believe that 7800 RPM can be
safely attained by most motors - however, the above disclaimer still applies.
If you have to ask what "valve float" is, you do not want this mod.
Why
would you want to do this mod? After you have installed a big turbo like a 20G
or possibly even a properly ported and clipped 16G, you can get maximum boost
all the way to redline - or at least prevent the boost falloff from getting too
large. You've got power all the way through redline - perhaps even beyond. By
extending the rev limiter, you are also extending your powerband, and increasing
the time spent in each gear. You also raise the entry RPM into the next gear,
which can decrease turbo spool-up time after you shift. A lot of the DSMs in
the 11s at the dragstrip have a hard time coming out of first or second gear
because they bounce off the rev limiter almost immediately due to either
traction problems or the very low gearing in the AWDs. With an extended rev
limiter, you decrease your chance of hitting that nasty fuel cut right out of
the hole. We can set the rev limiter to whatever RPM you want.
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